We started out early hoping to time our arrival at a bike repair shop we'd identified as a possible solution to Sandy's bike issues, to allow time for repairs and to manage the hills we knew we were coming. We're not entering the region of Portugal that we had travelled through in April. The coming three days will follow much of the same route. Leaving Golega we reached a more urban setting after about 1/2 hour of riding. Today we passed a few other pilgrims walking along the way. Greeting one another with calls of Buen Camino moments of commonality helped us move forward. Finding the bike shop presented a challenge. First the main street we passed along once we'd crossed the freeway was bulging with traffic. One long block backed up completely as trucks squeezed up the road, narrow sidewalks and a lot of cars made cycling feel dangerous. Following Google Maps the store was not in the location the internet suggested. For rent signs in the windows suggested they'd closed. There was another bike store a few blocks away - we'll find out way there and see what can be done. One of the turns took us onto a pedestrian mall where an elderly guy on a bike stopped us to let us know cycling wasn't permitted on that particular street. Apparently scooters were exempt as a young man passed us while we walked down the cobbles. A block and a half down the street I stopped to check our progression only to look up and see the original store we'd sought beside us. They were in the process of moving the business and google had now been updated. There were newspapers on the window, but the door was slightly ajar. The young man who had passed us on the scooter came out of the door and we accosted him with please for assistance. Gratefully his English was good and he was willing to help. He brought us into the still closed store and set Sandy's bike up on a stand. Examining the problem he brought out a tool for straightening bent derailleur hangers and worked for a few moments at straightening the post. He adjusted the gears and got them working as best that he could then called us over to look at the wobble in the cassette. He didn't have a replacement that would work until tomorrow. Discussing our options we would move to Tomar. Sandy could now drop her bike into lower gears on hills with some confidence the chain would not come off and the hills, were not overly steep - that would come. The young man refused any payment for his work and we thanked him profusely. It's the second or third time that's happened in our travels through Portugal. The people are gracious and eager to help when help is needed.
We continued on from the shop navigating our way back to the route we had left to get there. The narrow street, the traffic, and as I turned through one of the roundabouts and powered up the slight rise to the overpass I wondered why my bike felt so heavy. Looking down I realized I'd forgotten to turn on the pedal assist. An e-bike is great as long as you use it as intended. The weight of the motor, the added weight of panniers and whatever happens to be in them, add together. I was managing the rise to the top of the overpass, but swearing at myself for forgetting to turn on the bike.
The following 20 kilometers was lovely riding. Country roads rising and falling through the hills surounding Tomar. There was little traffic and we passed dairy farms, olive groves, and small villages along the way. I was excited to be returning to Tomar. It's Convento do Christo and old city are enjoyable to explore. Our hotel this trip was even more comfortable than the one we stayed in during our spring excursion. Along the way we discovered that construction season in Portugal is not much different than in Canada - perhaps with the exception that the construction crew standing alongside the road took pity on us at what was supposed to be a detour - encouraging us to ride through the zone. Thankfully for us, and them, it was the lunch break - or something - the equipment was parked blocking the road with sufficient space for us to squeeze through to the other side. The benefit - no traffic following us down the hill into the center of Tomar. Next stop, bicycle repair shop #2. Sandy's bike needed a new cassette on the rear wheel. Bicycle repair Shop #2, like Bicycle repair shop #1, had a website telling us where to find it. They also had in common the failure to update the websites when they moved, closed, or had other relevant changes. We couldn't find #2, so onto google for #3. #3 was blocks away and easy to get to so we rode there in search of a mechanic. Thankfully it was open. The mechanic replaced the cassette for the price of the parts and did not charge us labour. On top of that he did a thorough inspection of the bike. Adjusting the brakes he said to me, "It's important that they are the same for the brain." I wanted to bring my bikes from Canada to Portugal for this person to inspect and adjust. We were deeply appreciative of his labour and of his concern. It was time to go to the hotel. As we left the shop we realized the doors were being closed and locked. The afternoon on the Iberian Peninsula is often a time for seistas. It was no different for the mechanic. We left aware of the ways in which his generosity went beyond what we expect. Thankful for his help.
At the hotel, lunch and our first excursion to the hotel pool. The outdoor pool was a little chilly for our taste so a dip in the indoor pool refreshed us. Our own siesta and we headed into the center of town to enjoy and relive some memories of our May visit. We spent some time in the city square. I'd hoped the scaffolding over the church would be removed. Alas, it seemed there was more of it. At an outdoor patio Sandy enjoyed a beer and I relived my introduction to gin and topic. It was in Tomar in May that some of those travelling with us introduced me to the drink. A touch of lemon, ice, and I decent sized large glass - a perfect refreshment on a warm afternoon. A couple of G&T's for me, and a couple of beers for Sandy, during which we were entertained by a group of women dancing in what looked like medieval costumes in the square - celtic music, it was somehow out of place - but entertaining none the less; especially the walking tour that came along and joined the women in their dancing - Sandy and I moved on.
Our destination was the Restaurant Thomas which had provided one of our dinners in Tomar in the spring. They have two menus - a handwritten menu of the day. Each item on the menu - about 12 in total is identified by a number. When we sat down the second menu was provided. The handwritten menu is in Portuguese. The second menu is typed in English. The second menu has a total of about sixty dishes. It's provided as a way to interpret the first menu. By matching the numbers on both you can interpret and understand the choices. A practical solution to bilingual issues. Not sure what they do when french, spanish, german or an other language is involved. It was good to be back. We were remembered as part of the cycling group that had come in the spring...close enough to feel like a part of the family. Another day comes to a close.
No comments:
Post a Comment